Jeepster Roller, Part 8

Part 8 continued:

Lower Links

The lower link frame brackets were tacked back into place, and the DOM lower links were installed without any drama.  The positioning is much better than before:



Passenger Shock Hoop

I repeated the process from the driver's side, and installed the passenger side shock hoop.  I

Hoop and extensions:

Brackets clamped into place:

Tacked into place:

Shock hoops done:

Coilover Test Fit

Passenger Side - lots of room!


Driver's Side:

Not a great deal of clearance, but acceptable:


Truss Clearance

Problem #1149...truss clearance to crankshaft pulley...(this will be solved later)

This isn't at ride height or at full bump - it's just at some random travel:

One solution is to notch the entire corner of the truss, but it would require a big chunk to be removed.  I could also rotate the truss forward towards the track bar to reduce the interference by 1/4" to 1/2".  

I've got another Dana 44 truss that might fit better because of its longer sloping angle.  Or I might have to graft the two trusses together to get the clearance needed.  

I have some options, and will solve this later when I pull the axle for final welding, gears and paint.

Upper Link

The upper link requires several changes:
  • The axle side bracket will be moved forward on the truss, and also inboard towards the engine.  
    • The PVC link currently hits the motor mount
    • By moving the bracket forward on the truss, it will give me a little more clearance to the engine.
  • The frame side bracket is moving back 1".  
    • This will make removing/installing the link bolt a little easier.  Right now, the bolt wants to hit the oil pressure sensor, but I can gain some clearance by moving the link back slightly.
  • The link will get longer by 3" than originally:
    • 1" for moving the axle forward
    • 1" for moving the axle bracket forward on the truss
    • 1" for moving the frame bracket rearward


The DOM upper link is done and painted:
 

I also pulled out the passenger side motor mount and cut off some extra material to improve clearance to the upper link.  


Installation

I removed both of the brackets, and shortened the axle bracket, so it wouldn't hang off the truss:

I also drilled a couple of bonus plug weld holes:

Assembled:

I tried to split the difference between clearance to the motor mount and clearance to the block:

That little tab on the block serves no purpose, so I could choose to remove it if more clearance it needed.  (this wouldn't be my first choice)

The rear bracket was moved back 1" for more bolt clearance:

I'm not feeling 100% confident about the upper link clearance, but I think I've done as well as I can for the moment.  

Exhaust Manifold Sealing

To keep the exhaust manifolds sealed up during the long build process, I installed a pair of old O2 sensors, and a couple of thin cardboard blocks:

Passenger Side:


Driver's Side:

Steering Arm Paint and Install

I masked off all of the tapers, and put a light coat of paint on the steering arm to prevent any rust.  Then fully installed it to the Reid knuckle.  

Next Steps

I've probably mentioned motor mounts as the "Next Step" three or four times.  This time, I mean it!  

The next update will have motor mounts tacked into place!

And hopefully, a crossmember too!