Jeepster Roller, Part 5

Shock Hoops

I picked up a cheap set of shock hoops from Rusty's a while back, I didn't use the wimpy included shock tabs (not shown).  Instead, I bought a beefier shock mount from Barnes4wd (also not shown!).  

And those are the rear emulsion shocks in the picture!

Layout

Based on the other clearances in the front, I'm going to optimistically set the shock hoop for 4.5" of uptravel.  

I'll plan to bump stop it to 4.0", and have 0.5" left in the shock at full bump.  

This will require a 1"+ notch in the frame for drag link and panhard bar clearance.  And will require a bent panhard bar.  These mods will be done later, much later, and not as part of the "roller" project.  


Cut to length on the Swag-Milwaukee Bandsaw, which is still one of my favorite tools:


Installed

Everything went together pretty easily on the passenger side.

One huge benefit of the remote reservoir shocks is the ability to depressurize them for mockup and installation!  I went emulsion shocks in the rear because of packaging issues, but remote reservoirs are worth the small price difference.



Then the driver's side got the same treatment:



Gussets and a cross brace will be installed later!

Spindles, Hubs and Coilovers

Some old and new Dana 44 parts got installed, so I could bolt on tires.  

My trusty sidekick has been MIA, but he appeared today and was very helpful.  He was cleaning up some of the old Dana 44 parts before we installed them: 

Passenger side spindle, hub and coilover installed:

Passenger side fully drooped out - good clearance to frame.  The other side isn't at full bump, but I'm still happy with the clearance.

Tires!

My trusty sidekick installing the first front tire:


On 4 tires for the first time in years!

Next Steps

The next step is to test fit the engine.  And check for clearances all around.

Key areas of concern:
  1. Exhaust interference with upper link bracket
  2. Motor mount interference with upper link
  3. Oil pan and crankshaft pulley clearance to pumpkin/truss  
  4. Engine depth into firewall because of the grill, radiator and electric fan.  Worst case, cutting the firewall may be necessary
In the short term, if I can get some clarity on the engine fit, then I'll make the DOM control arms and burn in the suspension brackets.

In the longer term (a week or two), it might be possible to get the motor/transmission welded into place.