LS1 Test Fit - July 4, 2020

Everybody is out of town, so I'm social distancing in my garage and working on my Jeepster...

I started checking the fit of the LS3 exhaust manifolds - no pictures, but they look fine.  I didn't install them because they hang down low, and, since I'm working alone, I figured there was a good chance of them getting banged around.  I also removed the stock AC compressor.  The Jeepster will have AC, but it requires a different compressor and mount.  And it hangs down low by the frame, so I thought it was better to just get it out of the way:





I had to hang the front axle with ratchet straps to give clearance for the legs of the engine hoist.  The jack stands supporting the frame were also moved back and out of the way. 




At this point, I realized that I had my chains set incorrectly, and the engine was higher in the back.  So I had to pull the engine back out, put it back on the ground and re-set the chains to get the proper engine angle.  And then re-install it.  Ooops



The list of changes needed is long, time-consuming and somewhat expensive:

1) The stock oil pan has to be replaced.  It's call the "bat wing oil pan" for obvious reasons, and it is wider since it is so low profile.  Unfortunately, there was no room for the upper suspension link.  Luckily, I should be able to sell this pan, as it's desirable for Corvette C2 and C3 LS swaps, and is supposed to be good during high G cornering. 
Not mine - just a sample picture:



This is the driver's side where the upper link wants to be:
          




I'm going to buy a Camaro LS1 oil pan kit.  It's still provides very good clearance up front by the axle, which is good.  It is 2" deeper in the back, but I think that will be okay for my needs.




2) It's hard to see, but the firewall has to be modified in one area, where the steel actually bumps out towards the engine and hits the passenger side head.  This shouldn't be a big deal.





3) The truss comes pretty close to the oil pan and will need to be modified.  I'm planning on 4" of up travel, so I should be okay after modding the truss.




No problem with the crank pulley clearance:




4) Since the axle is so close to the oil pan, I also thought about moving the axle forward:

Here the axle and wheel is centered in the fender - my preference:




Moved up about 1.5" - not as nice, but probably okay.  I'll give this some more thought. 




5) The stock brake pedal location has to move, which I anticipated.  There's no clearance for a large brake booster.




Anticipating changes, I had already purchased a TJ brake pedal assembly, so I laid that out in the new location:




Along with the new Corvette drive by wire accelerator pedal.  I spent a lot of time underneath the dash this afternoon...removing the old parts...checking the spacing to make sure they would be comfortable, etc.  In the end, I feel comfortable that it will all work fine. 



 
The TJ brake pedal will require the steering column to be moved up 3-4", which isn't a big deal.  I have a new tilt steering column ready to install



6) Last and most importantly is radiator clearance.  I had laid out the grill position before I removed it, and marked it with a strip of tape.  It's going to be very, very tight, as the radiator will take be 3" thick, and the AC condenser is 1" thick.  I think by using two fans that I can arrange them to avoid interference.




7) Steering shaft clearance...I forgot that one.  Oops.

Important next steps...modify the grill and mock up the radiator and fans.  I haven't ordered them yet, so it may be a while before this task is completed. 

I hope everybody had a great Independence Day!